Ratings - Finding Routes for You
Ratings are a challenge. They need to be objective, but are based on one or a few trips down a canyon. With more or less water, a few logs shifted here or there, a good day vs. a bad day, the rating for any canyon could change up or down substantially. All ratings are estimates for fit adults in small groups, with proper gear and in ideal conditions.
But, I digress. We have ratings so that you, dear reader, may find ventures that match your abilities and proclivities. The ratings also indicate the seriousness of the canyon, and provide guidance as to how much gear to bring
The European Canyoning Rating systems are very good for wet canyons. For the dry canyons mostly found around here, I have adopted climbing ratings to the canyoneering experience. Ratings come in three parts, the Grade, which indicates the length of time required;
the Class, which indicates the level of technical difficulties; and the Quality Rating - my indication of how 'good' this particular stroll is. It should be noted that the Grade indicates some combination of the time involved and the commitment level, and is estimated for fit adults in groups of 2-4. The Class indicates only the hardest single place, but not the extent of difficulties. Here's a rundown on ratings:
Grade: Length of Time / Commitment Level
Grade I: Short. A few hours.
Grade II: About half a day.
Grade III: Most of a day.
Grade IV: A long day. At least 10 hours of hiking, maybe more. Get up early, bring a headlamp. Possible bivy.
Grade V: More than one day, not bad in two days. Some parties may be able to marathon it in one day, others will want to stretch it out over a few days, intentionally or otherwise.
Grade VI: More than two days. The description should indicate the number of days. Speeds will vary substantially based on conditions and competence.
Class: Technical Difficulties
Class 1: Very easy. A graded path or very easy walking. Easy to find route.
Class 2: Rough hiking. A little use of the hands. No clearly marked trail.
Class 3: Easy Scrambling. Some climbing involved, but not too hard and not too dangerous. Beginners may want a rope, but it might not do much good. Rock tends to be loose. May require good navigation skills.
Class 4: Technical Scrambling. Some exposed and possibly dangerous stuff. Climbing skills required. Non-climbers will not have a good time, even with a rope.
Class 5: Real Technical Climbing. Often done without ropes. Dangerous. Some routes may require rappels, lead climbing, solo climbing, drilling anchors, etc. It's very important to review the description carefully to evaluate the difficulties and the equipment required. Entering a Class 5 canyon without the proper skills AND gear could result in severe injury or death. Subcategories:
Class 5 EZ: A few rappels, some swims, a little easy downclimbing. Suitable for beginners in competent company. Either wilderness canyons with minimal rappels, or non-wilderness canyons with established anchors.
Class 5 NTB: 'Not Too Bad'- the next level up. Harder rappels, scarier climbing, strenuous and interesting without being too dangerous. Climbers will have a good time, non-climbers will not. Requires a little more gear in case something goes wrong.
Class 5 PDH: 'Pretty Darn Hard'- up the ante. Bad anchors, serious climbing, difficult to escape potholes, lengthy swims or some other riff raff barrier included. Click Here for an example of how NOT to do it. Ability to place anchors, ascend ropes and/or drill your way out of trouble. A serious commitment for experienced canyoneers.
Class 5 VS: 'Very Serious or Very Severe'- up the ante again. Only suitable for experienced Canyoneers with the correct equipment. Like a big wall, without escape. Don't skimp on the equipment, don't kid yourself. In Utah, canyons that are VS usually have flowing water or extensive wet potholes, and require dry suits for safe passage.
Stars: Quality Ratings
are very subjective. I use 0 to 3 stars which mean:
- A Classic. Really good.
- Pretty Good, well worth doing.
- Has redeeming qualities.
(0 stars ) - Probably not worth the bother.
Since this is a 'select' guide, there are mostly 3 and 2 star canyons. This is known as 'star inflation'. I'll try to be a little more discerning and quell my enthusiasm, but... Comments are appreciated - please email me using the Feedback Form.
Any rating given is, of course, only my evaluation in the conditions I found. Many will disagree, up or down. Please be responsible and be careful.
Who Will Like What. Aye, that's the rub. Here's what I think you will find of interest:
Non-Hikers, Non-Outdoor Types will find the least difficulty with the shorter Class 1 and Class 2 hikes. This includes hiking with children at that troublesome in-between age - too big to carry, too small to go very far. Most of the Grade I and II hikes are out-n-backs, with no commitment to making a certain distance. Note that times listed are for fit adults in small groups without children.
Hikers of Reasonable Fitness and Skills will like most of the Class 1, 2 and 3 adventures, and may like some of the Class 4 hikes, especially when accompanied by a climber, or if possessing a little climbing experience. Stay away from Class 5 routes and the longer Class 4 routes. Class 3 Hikes often require good map reading and route finding skills.
Climbers will generally enjoy Class 4 adventures and Class 5 routes rated EZ or NTB. The set of skills required for technical routes has little to do with yanking your way up the local clip-up, and everything to do with good ropework, judgement and experience. It is also essential to have the right gear (and know how to use it) like a bolt kit, hooks and partial or full wet suits. Many routes require these skills more because of remoteness than because of actual difficulty, but if you are stuck without an anchor, you are stuck.
Climbers will want to have 4 or 5 NTB routes under their belt before taking on PDH's. Developing your canyoneering specific skills is important before taking on the more difficult routes.
Experienced Canyoneers already understand what I'm talking about and can make their own decisions.
Taking Groups Down should be done with caution. Especially in wet canyons, things can get out of control quickly. It is not uncommon to see a group of non-climbers being led by one novice climber into a technical canyon like Zion's Pine Creek, making poor decisions, and putting innocent people at risk. Don't do it, I know you want to, don't be stupid.
Groups are as slow as their slowest member, and then slower. Youth groups get in trouble all the time in Utah, often resulting in rescues and occasionally in deaths. Technical canyons are not good places for youth groups. Find some other form of adventure. If your group is larger than 6 people, break into 2 groups to make the going faster and decrease your environmental impact.
What Stuff to Bring Along
The rating gives a general idea of the "kit" of technical gear required for a canyon, though it does not replace careful analysis of the description. In general, bring this stuff:
Class 1: Not much. Bring a map.
Class 2 and 3: Map and compass/GPS required. A short rope for lowering/raising packs might be helpful.
Class 4: Read the description carefully. A rope and rappeling gear should be brought along, though they may not be used.
Class 5 EZ: Ropes of the required length. Helmet, harness, rappel device, locking carabiner and rappeling gloves for each and every person. Four or five over-the-shoulder slings in case anchor slings need to be replaced. Helpful to have tiblocs or prussicks and enough slings to use them. Map and compass/GPS.
Class 5 NTB: Requires more self-reliance. Ropes of the required length. Helmet, harness, rap device, locking biner and gloves for each person. Enough slings and Rapid Links to replace all anchors in the canyon. Tiblocs or prussicks plus enough slings to use them to climb the rope. Map and compass/GPS. Bringing an extra rope (or pull-down cord 5mm x 165') is a good idea. NTB canyons often have old or unsafe bolts in them that really should be replaced - so bringing a bolt kit would not be a bad idea.
Class 5 PDH: More. Ropes of the required length. Helmet, harness, etc. Each person should have tiblocs, prussicks or ascenders. The group should have a bolt kit, plus hooks. Plenty of slings, especially tied slings. Bring a couple of 20' pieces of webbing or cord, and one 40' piece. Bring a bunch of Rapid Links. Bringing a spare rope or pull cord is highly recommended.
Class 5 VS: All the above, plus...? Requires specialized equipment like full wet suits or dry suits. Don't cheat.
Groups
As you may have guessed, I'm not really in favor of large groups in our canyons. If you do bring a large group (larger than 6 persons), here are some suggestions:
Break It Up: take your group down in smaller groups of about 6. If you don't have enough competent leadership to break into groups, you don't have enough to manage the larger group.
Carry Extra Gear: given the carrying power of all those people, you should bring a spare full set of ropes, plus ascenders and a spare rappeling device. In case of injury, one group can go for help without stranding those who stay behind.
Next: Hazards, Non-Technical and Technical
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