Find the nomenclature confusing? Check out Carabiner 101 over on the Tech Tips page, for an explanation of the arcane art of biner naming.

Flute rappel in Engelstead Canyon Click for Larger Picture

There's a stack of carabiners out there, but there's only a few that work for canyoneering. I really only carry two kinds of carabiners in canyons: Mini HMS Screwgate Locking Biners, and small Utility Screwgate Locking Biners.

Locking or Non-Locking?

Locking, with a screw-gate, please.

There is little use for non-locking biners in a canyon. We're not rock climbing here, kids. In almost every case, having a lock on the carabiner is a good idea. Simple, screwgate type of locks work because they resist jamming from sand and grit better than spring-loaded auto-lockers. Even just racking stuff on your harness, locking carabiners can be locked so they won't jump off your harness when downclimbing.

Shape

If the Munter Hitch is not your friend, it soon will be. It is nice to have carabiners that a Munter Hitch runs well on. These kind of 'biners are called "HMS" biners. A symmetric HMS carabiner runs a Munter Hitch much better than an assymetric HMS biner, and the "mini" size that many companies offer seems to work just fine. These biners also work well for biner blocks and clipping into things. Further, the symmetry helps to spread out the wear from rappelling, rather than concentrating it in the corner.

If there is a drawback to Mini-HMS Screwgates, it is their weight. When you have enough HMS biners (usually four), add a couple of small screwgate lockers to round out your rack.

BASIC

At the basic level, I recommend carrying 4 Mini-HMS Screwgates and 2 Small Utility Lockers.

INTERMEDIATE and ENTHUSIAST

For more advanced canyons, it is nice to have a few more 'biners at hand. My regular rack is 6 Mini-HMS Screwgates and 2 Small Utility Lockers.

Mini HMS Screwgate

The Mini HMS Screwgate is the work-horse of technical canyoneering. Great for anchoring things, works well for rappels and belays, really good for the extremely-useful Munter Hitch. In mildly-technical canyons, I like to carry four, in more-technical canyons, I carry six.
 

Petzl Attache Screwgate Mini-HMS Carabiner Work great, nice color. Weight: 74 grams or 2.6 ounces Cost (MSRP): $ 15.95

Trango Screwgate Mini-HMS Carabiner BUY at CUSA Not as nicely finished as the Petzl, but less expensive. Weight: 79 grams or 2.8 ounces Cost (MSRP): $ 12.95

Utility Screwgate Locking Carabiners

It is nice to carry a few additional locking biners, but the Mini-HMS's are rather heavy. I like the BD Quicksilver2 screwlocks because they are light, inexpensive, nicely finished and work.
 

Black Diamond Quicksliver2 Screwlock Carabiner BUY at CUSA Very nicely finished, lightweight, works well. Weight: 56 grams or 2.0 ounces Cost (MSRP): $ 7.50

Hello Pitney answers the Telephone Click for Larger Picture

Applying friction to the rope is the job of the rappel device - preferrably the right amount of friction. There are many different rappel devices out there, and plenty of people that will go to bat for each.

Devices break down into two basic types: Figure Eights and Plate Devices. Figure Eights work well on bigger ropes and can be used in other ways, but they are not good for small ropes, and put a twist in the rope as you rappel. Some Figure Eights can be used as an ascender, and as a releasable rappel device, which can be useful in an emergency.

The more modern plate-type devices tend to have a wider range of friction modes available, and don't put a twist in the rope. Best of these is the Black Diamond ATC-XP.

More recently, a variety of devices combine the two styles to provide even more friction options. The two most popular of these are the Petzl Pirahna and the Omega Pacific SBGII.

Whatever rappel device you select, learn how to use your device on a variety or ropes - thick and thin, double and single, dry and wet. Learn how to create different levels of friction with your device while in controlled conditions - and become a better canyoneer.

BASIC, INTERMEDIATE or ENTHUSIAST

For all, the recommendation is the same. The BD ATC-XP is the best and most versatile rappel device, and I recommend it to all.

Plate-Type Rappel Devices
 

Black Diamond ATC-XP BUY at CUSA Versatile plate-type rappel device. Especially good on small ropes. Weight: 108 grams or 3.8 ounces Cost (MSRP): $ 19.95

Figure Eight Rappel Devices
 

Petzl Figure 8 with Plastic Tab Works well on larger ropes. Flat surface allows locking off. Weight: 110 grams or 3.9 ounces Cost (MSRP): $ 19.95

Hybrid Devices
 

Petzl Pirahna Canyoning Figure 8 Versatile device designed for canyoneering. Takes a bit of time and practice to figure out how to produce the right amount of friction. Requires a Petzl Attache to attach to the harness. Weight: 90 grams or 3.2 ounces Cost (MSRP): $ 26.95

Omega Pacific SBG II Versatile device with a lot of different friction options. Weight: 77 grams or 2.7 ounces Cost (MSRP): $ 16.95 More Information: Omega Pacific Website

Trango Magic APD BUY at CUSA An interesting device that can be used as an 8, as a plate, and as a Gi-Gi type plate. Weight: 91 grams or 3.2 ounces Cost (MSRP): $ 19.95 More Information: Trango Website